Hola chicos! Rest finally came in San Sebastian. After the big festivity of Carnaval, the city has been in a deep sleep. Carnaval meant 4 weeks of drumming during the middle of the night, so I’m glad there’s a break. The break won’t be long though. As February comes to an end, the tourist season is about to begin. Locals have been discussing this season with a sense of fear….
Unfortunately, the break in festivity also means there’s a break in terms of work at the Londres hotel where I’ve been doing some shifts in the past weeks. After a conversation with the chef, he made clear why. I get hired by the hotel whenever there is a big catering planned. These big caterings go hand in hand with the festivities in the city and so no festivity is equal to no work for César.
Free Time
And so this week I have zero shifts at the Londres which is a bummer since I was building up some consistency in the past weeks. But with the fearsome tourist season coming my hopes are up that restaurants are more willing to hire chefs since it will get busier and so, we keep looking for a restaurant where I can work consistently.
And so I’ve been keeping myself busy the past few days by being outside a lot. The coastal hikes here are stunning, walking right next to the cliffs is one of my favorite things to do when the weather is good. The beautiful thing about the Basque country is that it does not only offer gastronomic wonders but also natural wonders. What is even more beautiful is that the Basque country also offers a combination of these two.
The Asador
If you plan and time your outside activities right, you should almost always be able to find a place to lunch in between the hike or at the end of the hike. The best time to begin hiking is around 9, eat light, and walk for around 5 hours with a small break in between. Around 2 or 3 you should be arriving at your lunchspot. Look for a place that’s called ‘Asador.’
Asador’s can be found throughout the whole of Spain, it’s not typically Basque. However, people argue about where they do it the best, not surprising that the Basque country is among the favorites. The Spanish word asador translates to the word grill. So, an asador is a type of restaurant where they work with open fire and are famous for grilling meats and fish.
The History of the Asador
Asadors are typically found a little bit outside of the cities. There will also be asadors in the city, but they tend to be a bit more luxurious and expensive. I like the ones outside of the city because these are the places where most locals come, prices are fair and the food is amazing. Next to that, they make a great motivation to do a hike outside of the city. What’s better than sitting down with a cold caña and a grilled rodaballo?
The First Fire
Cooking over fire is one of the oldest cooking methods known to men, thus the history of the asador runs back hundreds of years, thousands actually! Archeologists found many clues in the Iberian Peninsula which suggested that early civilizations would cook meats and other foods over an open fire, often using spits or skewers to hold the food. This can be seen as the beginning of what we now know as an Asador!
The Romans, who had a significant presence in Spain, further developed the techniques and tools for roasting meats. They introduced the concept of large communal ovens and improved upon spit-roasting methods. The term "asador" likely finds its origins during this period. During this time it meant simply a grill or to grill.
During the medieval period in Spain, the asador became a central fixture in both kitchens and outdoor cooking areas. Castles, manors, and even humble households would have a designated space for roasting meats, typically employing large spits turned by hand or machinery. Up until now, there are yet no establishments (restaurants, inns, or taverns) that are famous for their open fire and grilled plates.
The Eternal Flame
The first restaurant that branded itself as an ‘asador’ type of restaurant was in 1725 in Madrid. Restaurant Sobrino de Botin is currently the oldest restaurant in Spain. The story is, is that the flame that was lighted in 1725 is still burning to this day. Famous painter Francisco Goya worked in Casa Botin while waiting to get accepted into the Royal Academy of Fine Arts. Sobrino de Botin first carried the name Casa Botin. However, when the founder Jean Botin passed away in 1753 his nephew took over and changed the name to Sobrino de Botin. Sobrino in Spanish means nephew.
The restaurant is also mentioned in Ernest Hemingway’s novels “The Sun Also Rises” and “Death in the Afternoon.” A short description of the signature dish ‘cochinillo asado’ is written in the ending pages of the novel, this dish can still be found on the menu today. Due to Hemingway's reference to the restaurant, it garnered significant tourist attention, becoming a pilgrimage destination for many Americans. Still, I’d love the restaurant with the eternal flame.
We lunched upstairs at Botin’s. It is one of the best restaurants in the world. We had roast young suckling pig and drank rioja alta. Brett did not eat much. She never ate much. I ate a very big meal and drank three bottles of rioja alta.
Ernest Hemingway
The Fire Spreads
Around 1750 more and more asador types of restaurants started popping up throughout the whole of Spain. Especially in the more rural parts of Spain where there were strong agricultural and pastoral traditions, asadors became commonplace. These establishments would often be located in or near farming communities, where locally sourced meats, such as lamb, pork, and game, were roasted and served. With the Colonial expansion during the 15th and 16th centuries, a wider variety of products became available. New ingredients such as chilies, tomatoes, and various meats were incorporated into the Spanish cuisine, often finding their way onto the spit.
Over time, the tradition of roasting meats evolved into specialized restaurants we currently refer to as asadors. These establishments focus on expertly preparing and serving roasted meats, often in a rustic and traditional setting. Asadors are no fancy places where the dining area is decorated excessively or you have sommeliers. Most asadors are areas made for a quick meal, nothing over the top. If you’re lucky you have a place with paper tablecloths, white plastic tables, and chairs. However, there are of course a few high-end asador restaurants around the country. There are even asadors with Michelin stars.
Asadors also became associated with celebrations and festivities, such as religious holidays, weddings, and village fiestas. Roasting a whole animal, such as a suckling pig or lamb, over an open fire was a symbol of abundance and communal sharing. If you visit an asador during the weekend, big chance you will see a big table full of people who are celebrating something.
Currently, asadors hold cultural significance in Spain, representing not only a style of cooking but also a way of life deeply connected to the land and its resources. For many families, a staple activity during the weekend is having lunch at an asador. The emphasis on high-quality ingredients, traditional cooking methods, and communal dining experiences remains central to the ethos of asador-type restaurants.
My Recommendations
So you know what to do. Whenever visiting Spain, pick a day to go hiking and finish your hike at an Asador. Here in the Basque country, order a bottle of cider, a Txuleta, or a Besugo. For those who are planning on visiting the Basque region, here are a few recommendations:
Asador San Martin, Orio.
San Martin is famous for their grilled fish. Orio is an old fishing village close to Zarautz. Most fish that are being caught go to restaurants or the villagers of Orio. The specialty is the besugo.
Ganbara, San Sebastian
There are two asadors in the city center of San Sebastian. Ganbara is probably the most famous and expensive of the two. The entrance offers seats at the bar where you can order pintxos. The basement is the actual asador. It’s not very big and they don’t take reservations. Waiting in line is something normal here.
Oianume, Urnieta
This is the most basic asador you can get. A big open space with simple tables and chairs. The asador is divided into two spaces, downstairs is where you eat the ‘menu del dia’ and upstairs you can eat ‘a la carte.’
Elkano, Getaria
Elkano is a Michelin-starred restaurant in Getaria. Elkano originates from 1964 and since its opening they have been famous for its grilled fish dishes, especially the rodaballo. The fish is caught by local fishermen.
Asador Bedua, Zumaia
Asador Bedua is situated in an old 7th-century mansion along the river Urola near Zumaia. It’s exactly what you expect from an asador and very popular among the Basque people. The dining area takes you bake to medieval times and the food is pure but simply amazing.
Asador Etxebarri, Axpe
Best for last. Etxebarri might be the best asador in the whole of Spain. It was number 3 of the world’s best 50 restaurants in 2021 and has been holding a Michelin star for several years now. Owner and chef Bittor Arginzoniz uses open fire for every course on his menu. The kitchen features 6 fully adjustable grills, a 750-degree oven, and many ingenious utensils designed by the chef himself. The menu respects the intrinsic natural flavors of local produce and delicately urges each ingredient to show its potential. This is the top of the top.