I’ve recently announced in a past Edit that I’ve made a return to the kitchen. We serve tapas, small dishes ordered in multiple rounds. The classic patatas bravas, pimientos de Padron, and tortilla can be found on our menu but also the more hard-to-find Spanish dishes like navajas, morcilla, and huevos rotos. To give you an idea:
‘¡Amigo, vamos a comer algo!’ This is the dream of all the world. The dream is to live in Granada. You know, work in the morning, have a one-hour in the afternoon, at night go out and have that life. You know. Go out and see your friends and eat tapas and drink red wine while being in a beautiful place
So for the past few months, I have been cooking and dressing up hundreds of tapas plates for customers. At a certain point I began thinking, is my understanding of tapas correct? Where does this unique tradition originate, and how has it become so immensely popular in the past few years? Let’s head for Spain, again.
Que?
Let's start at the beginning: What are tapas? According to the Royal Spanish Academy, a tapa is defined as a “small portion of food served as an accompaniment to a drink.” In other words, a small snack that accommodates your beverage of choice.
My chef, who is Spanish, explains it as the following: The simple and plain answer is that tapas are a combination of small dishes that can be formed into a whole meal or as a simple snack. But it’s way more than that of course, tapas should be a conversation starter and a company on the table in a positive way. Tapas makes sure you have to interact with others because you share either with your company or strangers. Never have I seen somebody that ate tapas on their own, never.”
My point of view doesn’t differ that much from my chef's (ahhh, such a good commis!). However, the meaning of tapas is different based on where you are located. For example, I think the purpose of tapas in the Netherlands is very different than the meaning of tapas in Spain. In Spain tapas are seen as something you eat when you are in a bar. Here in the Netherlands, and probably a lot of other countries except Spain, tapas is seen as a whole meal and another way of eating.
As we have seen in many past topics, sometimes the history is a bit unclear and multiple theories on how the dish originates come forwards. The same goes for tapas. The different regions of Spain all individually claim to be the birthplace of the iconic Spanish tradition, something I’m not really surprised by. Of the 17 regions in Spain, Andalucia looks to be the most upholding.
The Tapas Theories
Theory 1
The word “tapas” is derived from the Spanish verb tapar, meaning “to cover” or “to lid.” The term “Tapa’ derives from Andalucia, which can be found in the south of Spain. “Ta Pa” is an abbreviation for bover. Traditionally, tapa was served with a glass of wine and a slice of Pata Negra, manchego, or pan crystal on top. Barkeepers did this in order to prevent dust and flies from entering the patron’s glass.
This ritual was initiated before the 19th century by posadas, albergues, or bodegas, places that offer meals and beds for travelers. Only a few innkeepers knew how to write and only a handful of travelers could read and so, inns offered their guests a sample of dishes available on a “tapa.”
Theory 2
The second theory origins from the 13th century and has a king in its story. King Alfonso X (The Wise) of Castille was recovering from illness and found out that small consumptions of food and wine strengthen the constitution. The method proved successful and so pleasurable to the king that he henceforth proclaimed that alcohol could not be served without accompanying food.
It was a prudent decision as the bodegas in Spain at that time were notoriously full of drunken and swarthy sailors. Having the patrons eat while imbibing their refreshments ensured they didn’t get too drunk quickly and reduced violent incidents on the streets.
Theory 3
This theory is a bit familiar as we have partly covered it before when writing about Paella. The theory is that the origin of tapas comes from the fields and workshops of the Middle Ages. As workers toiled in the heat of the summer, the usual fat-heavy main meal of the day usually eaten at midday was deferred until the evening.
As the workers slaved in hellish conditions, a glass or two of red wine was provided as it helped loosen aching limbs and the mood of the workers. Next to that, small portions of food were served in order to lessen the drowsiness of the workers when returning to their labor.
Theory 4
The last theory also involves a king with exactly the same name. King Alfonso XII (!886-1931) stopped by a famous tavern in the Andalusian city of Cadiz, where he ordered a cup of wine. As Cadiz stands famous for how windy it can get due to its location on the western coast, the bartender placed a slice of ham over the wine to keep the sand out. The King was pleased and when he ordered a second cup where, again, he received a slice of ham.
There is probably a small truth in each of these theories, most likely the tradition of tapas evolved for multiple reasons. What is evident, however, is that tapas are a historic testament to Spain’s rich and diverse history. The Romans planted olive trees and vines, the Moors brought almonds, citruses, and spices, and the Conquistadors who sent back maize, potatoes, and tomatoes from the New World. All can be found in tapas.